Road Trip: New Old Breweries, Burgers and Big Views
Photos by Kevin Gibson
There aren’t many things I enjoy more than checking out a new brewery. Took a day trip on Monday to Columbus, Ind., and visited one that borders on being a must-see if you’re up that way: The Upland Pump House.
Set in a restored former pumping station, it sits along the Flatrock River, with an outdoor beer garden that overlooks a small waterfall in the river. Absolutely gorgeous. Inside the old pumping house is a cavernous space with hanging lights, a rectangular bar and views of the river as well. Back to the beer garden, there are a couple of cool art installations — one of them being what looks like a giant fishing lure, which reminded me of going fishing with my grandfather as a kid. The other, titled “Tracing Our Mississippi,” is about appreciating local waterways like the Flatrock.
The building was designed by architect Harrison Albright and completed in 1903, and until 1951 it pumped water from the river for domestic use for the city. It also produced electricity for downtown street lighting. The city sold the property in 1952, and it served a couple of different purposes until it was acquired by Upland Brewing Co.
The Pump House first opened about five years ago, but the space was brand new to me, so I was in discovery mode in terms of my surroundings. (See photo gallery below for some views.) I have a huge appreciation for repurposed architecture, especially one that was designed to serve a fairly utilitarian purpose that later becomes something so attractive and interesting. That’s the Pump House.
Of course, if you’ve been around this area for long, you’ve already had Upland’s beer. The brewery earlier this year opened a location in Jeffersonville, and the Upland Wheat has long been a regional favorite. I started my visit with a flight of four, including Campside Pale Ale, Dragonfly IPA, Confluence American IPA and Bourbon Barrel TBK, an imperial Russian stout that checked in at 10% ABV. The Campside was a pretty straight-forward APA, the Dragonfly is an old-school West Coaster, while the Confluence American IPA offered a note of Spruce. The Bourbon Barrel TBK was just what you’d imagine: a sweet, boozy, creamy punch in the mouth. (Glad my girlfriend Cynthia was driving.)
We both ordered beer cheese burgers from the diverse brewpub menu, which included house-made Dragonfly IPA beer cheese and peppered Applewood bacon (we skipped the grilled onions) on a brioche bun. The beef is locally sourced from Fischer Farms in Jasper, Ind. Thick-cut fries cooked in a light beer batter were our sides of choice.
Our friendly server told us the kitchen usually slightly undercooks the burgers, so instead of my usual medium rare, I asked for “medium to medium rare,” to play it safe. (I’m not a fan of overcooked meat, but I also don’t prefer it bloody — just pink.) Well, when our burgers arrived, Cynthia’s was a perfect medium-well … and so was mine. I’m not a “send it back” type of guy, but I did wish I had stood pat on the medium-rare norm.
Still, our meals were tasty and the atmosphere was enjoyable. Oh, and if you like spiciness, ask for the Campside habanero sauce. I got a side to dip my fries in, and it was positively amazing. My mouth was ablaze by the time I forced myself to push it away. Fresh-tasting and delicious. After we finished eating, I cooled my jaws as we hung out on the patio and enjoyed the river view.
All in all, I’d recommend Upland’s Columbus Pump House even if you are going to Columbus just for that. We spent the day hanging out downtown before our lunch, but I would make the drive back for another meal on a sunny day. But next time, I’ll remember to order my burger medium-rare. (Oh, and like a true brewpub, the menu is diverse enough that pretty much everyone will find something they like.)
