The Taste Bud: The Resch’s Tavern Burger Comes as Advertised
Best cheeseburger in town? It might just be true at Resch’s Tavern in Clarksville. Photos by Kevin Gibson
When I was a kid, I remember my Dad’s friend John mentioning on occasion that he was going to “the donut shop,” and sometimes he would ask my dad to join him there. Sometimes in the evening. I didn’t quite understand the idea of going to a donut shop at 7 p.m.
A few years later, my Dad informed me that “donut shop” referred to Resch’s Tavern, a neighborhood bar in Clarksville. The building had been several things before the tavern opened there, including a bakery, and John was simply using the term as a deflection. Heck, or maybe they still had donuts. I don’t know, I was 12.
But the small building at 523 Eastern Blvd., just off I-65, remains Resch’s all these years later. Recently, I was having lunch with a friend (elsewhere) and he mentioned that a friend told him the burgers at Resch’s were delicious. My Dad still lives just blocks away from the “donut shop,” so I suggested he and I try lunch there. And we both ordered not just burgers, but double burgers. And we nearly overextended ourselves.
When we sat down, we immediately felt at home. An old-school menu board hangs on one wall, a cooler at the other end of the room has beer to go. A napkin holder featured a sign that read, “Best cheeseburger in town.” After we ordered, as we peered around the small, tidy space, with a bar nearly full with regulars at 11:45 a.m. (maybe they were there for the donuts), I saw an employee walk out of the kitchen with a fully dressed burger. It was huge. Fully dressed with lettuce, onions and tomato, it looked too big for a human being to even get their teeth around … and it was a single.
Thankfully, I got mine with cheese only – no vegetables at all – so when the mighty double appeared before me, on a paper plate, no less, I thought there still might be a chance for me to take a bite. My dad got lettuce and tomato, and he said, “I may have made a mistake.” He took a coupe of bites, but quickly allowed the vegetables to slide off the bun and onto the plate.
It was indeed a mouthful. And a belly full — I barely managed to finish it. Here’s the thing: The burgers, which were served medium well (I usually prefer medium rare), were authentic and delicious. Clearly hand-pattied, seasoned just enough to boost flavor, and clearly quality meat. And while it was cooked a tad longer than I liked it, it was still juicy and tender. It dawned on me as I trudged through the massive meat bomb that a good burger really can – and maybe should – be something quite simple.
I grow weary of going to restaurants where the belief seems to be that something different must be done to differentiate, be it adding some sort of candied bacon jam or barbecue sauce or guacamole. Nothing against any of those condiments, but sometimes it’s fine to just have a burger. It reminds me of the recent practice of infusing beer with some sort of flavor to, well, make it not taste so much like beer. I don’t need a raspberry lime sour gose; just make a good beer and serve me that. That’s what Resch’s has capture in burger form.
As my side, I had the house chili, which was decidedly Louisville-style, with spaghetti. It was decidedly basic, but definitely a comfort food in that it reminded me of the chili my Mom used to make, to which I always had to add more chili powder and hot sauce. Keep that in mind if you go. Dad’s French fries were solid, too, basic and familiar. You get the idea. At Resch’s, what you see is what you get, and that goes for the light sports-bar vibe, the friendly service and the content regulars. The burger follows suit.
Oh, the prices are more than reasonable too. If you go for the burger, I’d suggest sticking with the single, which is just $4.95. I also have read the tenderloin sandwich is a steal at $5.25. Also on the fairly concise menu are a fried bologna sandwich ($3.50), a fish sandwich ($7.50), a BLT ( $4.75) and various soups. Oh, and I saw another patron’s onion rings, and I’ll be having those next time I go.
Resch’s is open daily, 8 a.m.-10 p.m. weekdays, 8 a.m.-midnight on Saturdays, and noon-9 on Sundays. (Donuts sold separately.)
