Wings Are Back at Hilltop Tavern

They’re not quite the same, but wings are back at Hilltop Tavern. Photo by Kevin Gibson

Hilltop Tavern in Clifton has chicken wings on the menu again.

The menu at the neighborhood watering hole underwent some changes after a key staff change in the kitchen during the early parts of Covid-19, meaning the smoked meats – and smoked wings – went away. And while the new version of wings at Hilltop aren’t smoked, what they’ve done with them at the very least makes them reminiscent of what came before.

Whereas previously Hilltop Tavern wings were served whole, the new versions are served as separate flappers, or flats, and drumettes. And rather than smoking them, the new wings are brined for 24 hours, baked rather than smoked and then flash fried and tossed to order.

Previously, the house sauces were given names like Louisville Red and Spicy Buffalo; for now, the new Hilltop wings can be ordered three different ways: Buffalo, barbecue and teriyaki. However, co-owner Erika Skelton said the kitchen very well may experiment with new sauces going forward.

During my latest visit, the wings hadn’t even been added to the printed menus yet – Skelton told me as she handed me a menu to look at. Naturally, I didn’t need to look at the menu once she said “wings are back.”

I got an order – they come six for $10 – of the Buffalo style, and they came out nicely charred and stepped in orange-red sauce. The texture was a spot-on crispy outer shell balanced by a juicy, tender meat within each wing piece. In fact, the wings I was served were ample to the point that I didn’t regret not ordering a side – just six of them constituted a small meal.

(I even jotted in my notes that to call the flappers “flats” would be a disservice, because they were anything but.)

And the heavy char somewhat simulated the smoke of the previous wings, or maybe it was wishful thinking. Obviously, they’re different, but I was able to enjoy them for some of the same reasons I loved the originals. And that’s not a bad thing at all.

Oh, and it also bears noting that the signature spicy cheeseballs are back as well. Skelton said the plan is to keep the wings on permanently but cautioned that supply issues could cause hiccups. Here’s hoping they don’t go away anytime soon.